Espresso breaks, crazy drivers, and green rolling hills.

Bringing Dakota across the Tyrrhenian Sea from Spain to Italy was bittersweet. We loved Spain and had scheduled just two weeks to visit our favorite parts of Italy before taking Dakota to the dock in Genova  for her journey back home.   We started this journey 5 months ago thinking we would have enough time to visit everywhere we wanted.  As this quest comes to an end, we now realize how wrong we were.

Umbrian Countryside

The countryside of Italy is stunning. After driving through fierce wind and tormenting rain, attempting to understand directions in Italian, and taking a dirt road (because the main road was closed due to downed trees) we finally made it to our first stop, Orvieto. Our camp was at the base of the walled city, right next to the funicular that would take us up the hill.  As we walked around town the next morning, we noted the striped black and white stonework of Orvieto’s Duomo.  Even though we have visited many churches, we are always in awe of the craftsman ship of the mosaics, stained glass, carvings, and paintings.

We shopped a little in this historic town.  Maria, at Arte del Cuoio, made purses right on site.  We ordered a couple for gifts and watched as Maria expertly cut the leather with a blade and then began crafting our purses.

Assisi – home of Saint Frances

 

The Umbrian countryside rivals the the beauty of the Tuscan Hills. Here we saw rich farms and vineyards with grapes, oranges, lemons, olives and even chestnut trees.

We attempted to ride our bikes to Assisi through the spectacular countryside, but didn’t quite make it.  Our path was blocked and we had to turn back.  We returned to camp and resorted to the taking the bus. It was a nice bike ride though, in fact, probably the most scenic of our trip.

 

The Basilica of St. Francis
This basilica had many relics from St. Francis, including his tunic, some of his writings signed with his signature tau cross (last letter in Hebrew alphabet and symbolizes being faithful to the end), the chalice and plate he used for the Eucharist, and his simple knotted rope tie that are used as a reminder of a monk’s vows.

Who could argue with the message of St. Francis?  He treated each creature, whether prince or pauper, or even animal equally, with respect.  His message of living simply, and taking care of the environment is just as important today as it was in the 11th century.

We enjoyed just wandering and finding our peace away from the crowds.

 

Pisa and Lucca

Pisa –  like the Eiffel Tower, the Leaning Tower of Pisa is worth the visit.  It is much more impressive in person than in pictures.  It actually leans 15 feet to the south and it appears ready to tumble at any time.  We rode our bikes to town (no hills here), and walked through the impressive Duomo.

 

The town of Pisa is so much more than its famous tower.  We biked through the town (finding the best ice cream of our entire trip), over the bridge crossing the Arno River, and through Pisa’s historic squares.

The walled city of Lucca, even without any famous sights, is still one of our favorite places.  We enjoyed biking atop the Renaissance wall while enjoying the views of the town below with its many gardens,  walking to town at nightfall in the rain (and walking back in harder rainfall ), and browsing the back streets of the town by day. This is the perfect place to just linger, relax and enjoy great company and wonderful food.

 

Siena

This Tuscany hill town seems to be everyone’s favorite destination with good reason. Lounging at a cafe in the main square, IL Campo, watching all types of people relaxing and enjoying the day,  we were hard pressed to find any fault with this mostly traffic-free historic town.
Fun-fact:). The color Burnt Siena is named for the color of the soil in Siena.

IL Campo, the town square is the home to the famous Palio horse races.  It’s hard to imagine the horses and the crowds when we see people just plopping down on the bricks, and chillin’.

We enjoyed the green and white striped Duomo and the museum in Siena. The Duomo contains incredible artwork, Including beautiful mosaic floors and statues by Michelangelo and sculptures by Bernini.

Ruffugio, Santa Margarita, and Portofino – the Italian Rivierra.

About an half hour from Portofino, also know as the land of the rich and famous, is Santa Margarita, a beautiful, gleaming harbor-front town that offered us fabulous restaurants, restful strolls and relaxing beach life, as well as top-notch shopping if the spirit had moved us (never with Steve).

Portofino -the jewelry shops, the haute couture, and numerous boutiquesand beautiful views are exactly why people come here.  We came too, but didn’t stay long, instead we just rolled in on the bus and out again –   We did enjoy the views of the pristine waters and interesting architecture as we walked between the towns.

 

 

 

 

At the beginning of our journey we thought we would have time to visit “everywhere”.  Of course in reality, we knew that was not true, but we didn’t know how true!  There are so many places we felt we had to skip because of our time restraints; places we really wanted to visit.  I guess that leaves us with future destinations for the next excursion.

Seville – Siestas and Sunshine

Beautiful weather, siestas and cultural pride were all evident in Seville.  The architecture was beautiful and the history immense.  As the “gateway to the new world”, great explorers like Ferdinand Magellan and Amerigo Vespucci were sailing from this port in the 16th century. During this time,  Seville became an economic and cultural center for Spain.

We enjoyed walking through this lively town.  There were activities everywhere; free concerts in the park in the evenings, flamenco music and dancers, students from the university everywhere, and cloistered nuns selling rosaries and unleavened crackers from behind a wall  where you can speak to them, but not see them.  They put your items on a revolving rack and turn it until you get your item.

 

 

Unsure how we felt about bullfighting, we decided to tour the Bullfight Museum to give us a taste of what happens in the ring.  We walked through the bullring, saw the heads of a few bulls, the costumes of past matadors, the lances used by the picadores to pierce the neck of the bull, and the sharpened sticks the banderilleros use to stick into the shoulder of the bull.

Dos Hermanas

We camped in the small town of Dos Hermanas about 4 kms from Seville.  On our evening walk, we ended up in a town square that consisted of swings and a children’s play area, that was surrounded by small cafés and bars, all with outdoor seating.  There we saw families everywhere, even though it was nine at night.  We were enthralled, so we ordered a drink at a cafe and just sat and watched.  Kids were playing tag, running around, falling down, getting up, climbing fences, playing soccer, all without intervention from adults, yet under the close eyes of everyone there. It was amazing.  Adults of all ages were out enjoying the companionship of other adults. It was great. The weather had cooled and everyone (in the whole town it seemed) was enjoying an evening outside.

Saturday morning we walked into town again and saw a similar scene.   This time older men and women were out getting fresh bread, talking to each other, families were enjoying the 2 euro breakfast of a jamon sandwich, cafe, orange juice and fruit at the neighborhood cafes. We were welcomed into the cafe, graciously shown how to prepare our sandwich and then joined the group outside.  Amazing.

Magical Madrid

Although we, for sure, have not been to every city, it is hard to image a better city than Madrid. Each day we continued to be amazed at the architecture, the ambiance, and the wonderful people of this bustling city.

We visited three art museums over three days and enjoyed each of them.

The Prado – one one the world’s greatest museums with over 3000 canvases of incredible art including works by Francisco de Goya, Raphael (my favorite), Peter Paul Rubens, El Greco as well as being home to Diego Velazquez’s Las Menimas. We were amazed and a little overwhelmed by all of the masterpieces we examined and enjoyed.  (Sadly no photos were allowed in this museum.)

The Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum- this museum was fun as it was smaller and contained art from many different periods, from Primitive all the way through Surrealism, and even Pop Art.

Centro do Arte Reina Sofia – this modern art museum was perhaps our favorite out of all the museums we have visited.  It is home to many Picasso’s, but his massive (11 feet tall and 25.6 feet wide) Guardia is an impressive masterpiece, and was thoroughly the most thought-provoking work we had ever seen as it captured a moment of horror in world history

This museum amazed us with works of art by Goya (Proto-Modern), Salvador Dali (Surrealism), Matisse and Picasso (cubism), Jackson Pollock (Abstract Expressionism), as well as Nouvel Art from the 1960’s through the 1980’s.

Madrid seemed to have a magic all its own. The people were friendly and gregarious.  We enjoyed our times at Puerto de Sol,  where the first night we were served free tapas with our drinks. The next night the cook brought us out fresh rice and shrimp straight from the kitchen, and the waiter shared with us types meat and fish in Spanish so we could learn them and we taught him the names in English in return.

We were served sardines, salami, jamon and bread, all for the cost of a one euro cana (small beer).

 Fraga 

Another detour, this one for Mia Fraga Ball.

We followed road signs to Fraga, Spain. . As we drove through this town, we noticed everyone, every single man, woman, child, baby, and even dog, was wearing all white with orange bandannas.  We wondered, could it be there could be a soccer match in town?  We walked around this rather modern town of 15,000 people. After talking to many Fraga residence, we found out that we had arrived during the week of the Fiesta del Pilar. Fraga’s celebration called Pena Fragatina.   The community spirit was evident as evening drifted in, and the community rallied together and enjoyed Fraga’s traditional pastries, wine, music, dancing, and companionship.

Beautiful Barcelona

The closest campground to Barcelona was 45 minutes away.  This is the first time on our trip that there would be such a distance to travel to get to the city.  The good news, the campsite offered a free shuttle into the city and back each day, and the campsite was directly across the street from the beach allowing us beautiful views all day long, and especially in the evening as the sky would change colors to glorious reds and grays as the sun dropped below the horizon.

 

Work day and work breaks –  we needed a work day, so we purchased internet from the camp office for 24 hours. After working half a day, we decided to take a walk up the beach. What a beautiful day!  The walk began rocky and then ended at a pebbly expanse of perfect sunbathing beach.  Yep, work day indeed!

 

Don’t forget to see the extra pictures in our pictures section

Lisbon (Lisboa)

Although we spent an entire week in this city, I don’t think I will ever tire of its beauty, It has the charm and feel of a small village yet the hustle and bustle of Portugal’s largest city. We walked, took the metro, the bus, the vintage trolley, the ferry, and the funiculars as we explored the sprawling landscape. There was so much to see, experience, and do! We admired the Art Nouveau buildings with painted tiles (azulejo) adorning the facades and elaborate ironwork balconies.

We enjoyed the traditional food, walked narrow stairways connecting the squares and avenues, learned about Fernando Pessao, one of Portugal’s favored poets, and listened to the heart-wrenching Fado music in this town that was devastated in an earthquake in 1755.  An earthquake with enough magnitude to level two-thirds of its buildings.

Believe it or not, one of the highlights of our visit was touring the National Tile Museum (Museu Nacional do Azulejo). The traditional tiles grace both the interior and exterior of houses, churches, and businesses throughout Portugal. Beautiful!

The city of Lisbon had a San Francisco feel to it for many reasons. The vintage trolleys were similar to the ones in SF, also the bridge built in 1966, one of the world’s longest suspension bridges at 3,280 feet between towers, was built by the same company that built the Golden Gate Bridge.

The Belem area of Lisbon is home to Portugal’s current president.  It is also home to the 16th century Jeronimos Monastery where we attended a beautiful mass (in Portuguese). The limestone interior and exterior were elaborate   The monastery is where the tomb of the explorer, Vasco da Gama lies.

Soa Jorge Castle built in the 11th century by the Moors, afforded us some beautiful views of the city and the port.

While in Lisbon we had the opportunity to visit Antonio Riberio and his incredible staff at Vintage Vans.  We were familiar with the Vintage Vans web site, and since Dakota needed some work, I thought we would stop buy and introduce ourselves.  Vintage Vans is a Volkswagen shop that specializes in the repair and restoration of classic vehicles and they do amazing work.  The owner Antonio,  showed us around, while his staff graciously agreed to  change the oil and repaire the drivers window on Dakota.  It turned out to be an enjoyable several hours meeting new people and talking about old Volkswagens.

The Instituto Superior de Agronomia-

While in Lisbon, we were pleased to tour Portugal’s largest agricultural college, The Instituto Superior de Agronomia. The institution was founded in 1852 and has a current enrollment of 2000 students, all of which are agriculture majors.  When we arrived we were welcomed by Paula in the International Relations office and were given a brief history of the school and an orientation to the campus,  The first several buildings were bustling with students making their way to class, or just hanging out in the halls enjoying each others company.  As the tour continued, we soon noticed that the majority of the 200 acre campus was underutilized.  There was a crops unit, yet only about half was being effectively used, livestock units without livestock, and worst of all, farm shops that appeared to be only storage for equipment no longer needed.  I asked why the units were empty and the answer was that they were no longer used.  It appears that the campus is presently in economic trouble, and they are struggling to provide services to students.

The Algarve – The Atlantic Coast of Portugal 

The edge of the world as it was formerly known in the days of Christopher Columbus, is the southwestern most tip of Europe. We visited Cape Sagres and its fort where Henry the Navigator founded his school. It is here that in 1476 Christopher Columbus washed ashore after being shipwrecked. According to the fort brochure, Ferdinand Magellan, Pedro Cabral, Vasco da Gama, and Bartholomew Dias each studied here.

We toured the fort and walked around the historic coast pretending to be students in the 1500’s studying mapmaking, shipbuilding, astronomy, mathematics and languages. Each sailor had to keep a travel journal that could be studied for the advancement of all.

Salema and Lagos

Two busy  beach towns with cobbled streets, with ample places to sun bathe, rent a cabana or a nicely padded wooden lounge chair, and enjoy a cold drink, the views, and some music. Although we appreciated and enjoyed the splendid views, we spent little time in these beautiful towns that were full of tourists from both England and the Netherlands, and full of souvenir shops and cafés where all the staff spoke English. It was not the experience we were looking for, so we moved on.

Spending so much time on the road, we tried to stay off the expressways, and instead drive the smaller roads that often would take us through agricultural areas and small towns where we would stop for coffee, bread, or gas for Dakota. It was during these visits that we would meet some of the nicest, most interesting people on our trip.

Taking these smaller back roads on our way to Tavira, and enjoying the beautiful countryside, we found ourselves waiting as a farmer crossed the street with his herd of goats, we also slowed as people traveled by horse and carriage. As we continued, we saw some impressive old olive groves with trees trunks thick with age, cork groves with signs of being newly stripped, neat piles of cork from a past harvest, and pine trees with scored trunks and buckets collecting sap.

We arrived at our campsite late in the day, and began setting up camp when a Jorge and his wife stopped by on their bikes to say hello. We talked for quite a while, and he invited us to watch a soccer match with him in a nearby bar the next night.

While I went to get fresh bread, Steve unhooked the bikes from the rack so we could so we could ride the easy 7 kms to town. We looked forward to the ride as we were told that there was a bike path almost the entire way. Well, the path was gravel, and lined in some places by three foot tall sticker bushes. Guess who skidded on the edge where the gravel was the thickest, crashed her bike, ended up covered in little needles, bleeding from both knees and had so many stickers she looked like a porcupine? Yep. I added pricked arms and legs, and scabbed knees from this crash, to the blistered and burned leg from my coffee spill in Fatima, to the never recovered sore right knee from when I crashed my bike on the sidewalk in Berlin with Giana. Yep, call me Crash ( or just plain clumsy).

 

We rode slowly back to camp as a blood vessel in my left leg started to swell, I then showered, and tried to pull out all the stickers, changed clothes and then started off once again (made it this time ). Town was beautiful. A great place to vacation or even retire. We noticed the distinct style of architecture and unusual chimney types.

The highlight of our stay here in Tavira was cycling to a different part of town in the evening and watching the soccer game with Jorge. He was intelligent, easy to talk to, and well versed in many areas. We laughed together over similar Portuguese traditions here and in the U.S. We talked about the 102 ways to cook bacalao ( it was only 101, but Steve added a new one), eating altramuces at fiestas, Easter sweetbread, religion, politics, traditions, soccer, and fondnesses for grandmas.

When the  soccer game ended, and we spent a couple more hours talking, then unlocked our bikes, turned on bike lights (I had to hold a small flashlight in my hand as I broke mine off in the earlier fall), and peddled back to camp.

The next day we were heading towards Seville, Spain, and slept in late. On our way out of the campsite, we headed over to wish Jorge and his wife an enjoyable and safe holiday, only to find that he and his wife were already off on their morning bike ride. Alas, we left them a note fastened to their table by a water bottle and headed off toward Spain.

 

 

We apologize for the delay in posts, spotty internet and scheduling seemed to get in the way.

Upon leaving Santiago we chose to continue down the coast into Portugal, We were enjoying Spain and were sad to leave, but decided we would return to Spain via Seville later in the month.

Porto, Portugal – The Inventors of Port Wine

As we entered into this country of kind and welcoming people, we were greeted by colorful houses that were somehow even more beautiful with laundry hanging from their upper windows, red tiled roofs (sometimes these had fallen in), tall winding hills doted with churches, and of course shimmering blue water, as Porto is located where the Douro River converges into the Atlantic Ocean.

Porto, Steve’s favorite town thus far, is a charming place to walk and enjoy narrow cobblestoned (impossible to walk on in heels) roads, visit breathtakingly beautiful churches, learn about Fado music and taste port wine.

Steve loved Porto and feels an affinity toward the wonderful people of Portugal.  It’s not because he is half Portuguese, but instead it’s because the Portuguese people we have had the pleasure of meeting are animated friendly and loud, just like him.

Coimbra

Coimbra is home to Portugal’s oldest and most prestigious university. We wanted to visit and we were advised to take the funicular/elevator that would lift us up the long, steep hill to the university grounds. We were insulted to have someone think we were too old and decrepit to walk to the college, so we started up the very narrow, very roughly cobbled streets. We should have listened. :). It was fun walking through the expressive student housing, and seeing how students are students anywhere.

The university was founded in the year 1290 and is housed in a former royal palace overlooking the city. We spoke with a few students wearing their traditional uniform of a black cape.  They were very well versed and each spoke English fluently.

Batalha- Monastery of Santa Maria

We stopped to visit this fancy late-Gothic monastery on our way to Fatima.  The elaborate exterior did not prepare us for the planned simplicity and lack of ornamentation inside. The interior was dramatic in its simplicity and high arched ceilings.

Portugal’s Tomb of Unknown Soldier resides here under the Christ of the Trenches crucifix, housed within the cathedral. Soldiers actually carried this very cross into battle in World War I.  After the battle, French solders found the crucifix among the rubble and returned it to Portugal.  It now stands as a memorial for Portuguese veterans of war.

Fatima– It is said that Portugal is proud of their three “F’s”, Fatima, Fado, and Football (soccer to us Americans).

After setting up camp (there was free camping for visitors), we decided to walk around, even though it was getting late.  We noticed a mass going on outside (in Portuguese) and checked to see if an English mass was available.  There was one!  Only one, and it was to be at 5:30 the next morning. We decided we’d attend,   We entered the Basilica that houses the tombs of the three children . We then walked outside and sat by the tree where the apparitions occured.   As it was almost midnight, we returned to Dakota, we set our alarm for 4:00 a.m. and  went to bed.

As soon as the alarm went off the next morning, we jumped out of bed, rushed to the showers, being quiet as to not wake anyone else. After dressing carefully, we headed off to mass. When we arrived, there was no one else there!  Steve then remembered that in Portugal the time was one hour earlier than Spain, and he had not reset his clock. We trudged back to camp (where I made coffee and then managed to spill the boing hot liquid down my leg and into my shoe).  We did make it to mass at 5:00 a.m. smelling like coffee, even though we had not had any to drink.  After mass, we headed to the visitors center (yes, it was open at 6:00a.m.).The very kind and helpful woman told us about additional sights nearby including the houses of the children.  It was a humbling experience.  Returning to town we stopped at a few souvenir shops  (there were hundreds), headed back to the bus for lunch and a nap.

Obidos

This entirely walled city was a wonder to behold. We climbed up and entered through its main gate and wondered at the narrow cobbled lanes. We then climbed the 14th century steep, uneven steps to the 45 foot high sentry path. We followed the sometimes treacherous wall above and around the city enjoying the views below of the red roofed, white washed dwellings with their traditional blue and bright yellow trim.

We walked the cobbled narrow lanes, had our first taste of ginjinha, Portugal’s famous cherry liquor served in an edible chocolate cup, and enjoyed the history- filled town (founded by the Celt’s in 300 B.C., then ruled by the Romans, then the Moors).

Nazare

If it were the middle of summer, this quaint little town would be overwhelmed with tourists. As it is October, we had it mostly to ourselves. As we walked downtown, elderly ladies would ask us, in Portuguese, if we wanted to rent one of the rooms in their homes. At first we did not understand, but then we saw the piece of cardboard in their hands that read “quartos, room?”  It was touching and charming.  Everyone we met was kind and helpful. The atmosphere was relaxed, the views of colorful laundry hanging from the colorful buildings, the salted fish hanging out to dry, the beautiful coastal views, and the drizzling evening  rains  were all magical in this wonderful town.

San Sebastián

This picturesque, sparkling, Spanish Basque town with its shimmering white two-mile long beachfront promenade was about as perfect as perfect could be.  We set up camp, and then rode our bikes the short 15 minutes to the expansive beach. We walked the length of the bay enjoying the views and ended up in the lively old town.

We decided to attempt to join the locals tapas-hopping.  It took us a few tries, but we finally figured out the system.  We’d enter a very crowded restaurant, and there would be many platters at the bar each filled with delicious-looking small snack-size creations, some fancy, others more like small sandwiches on crusty bread, topped with jamon, bacon, fresh anchovies (yuck) and/or cheese.  After watching for what the locals ordered, we would point to (sometimes we’d just grab) what looked good, and eat!  You were on the honor system and just paid for what you ate on the way out.  Most were delicious. We’d then head to the next place that looked good and repeat the process. We had so much fun, we repeated the process the next night as well! We both felt that we could have stayed longer than the three short days we did in this charming town that was both modern (great shopping), and traditional.

Departing the next day, we happened upon the Camino de Santiago (Saint James’ Trail).  This is Europe’s most popular pilgrimage. People walk or bike 500 miles covering the same path that took Saint James to the northern corner of Spain (the edge of the known world at that time).  While we did not come prepared to walk the trail, we decided to drive it, visiting the small towns and villages along the way. Pilgrims on the walk start in the foothills of the Pyrenees mountains, then through Pamplona, through the vineyards and plains, and then end their journey 500 miles later in Santiago, Spain.

Pamplona

A favorite town of Ernest Hemingway; a Basque town with narrow lanes and beautiful churches, and of course, the town world-famous for its Running of the Bulls.

We camped nearby and rode our bikes for six miles along the Camino de Santiago (Saint James’ Trail) into the historic downtown Pamplona.   When we arrived, we walked the path the bulls take during their famous run, marveling at some of the narrow passageways and turns that both the bulls and the participants must maneuver. That evening we enjoyed tapas at various locations in town. and then made our way back to our bikes and the trail for the ride back to camp (getting more than a little lost, so that the return trip took about three hours).

 

Continuing the Camino de Santiago

We enjoyed several short stops in interesting small towns, their narrow cobblestone streets lined with tall old buildings. In some towns these two way streets were not wide enough for Dakota to maneuver through, so we would have to turn around (not easy) or back out.   We were glad there was not much traffic. Instead of the usual streams of cars, we would see many people walking to buy their morning bread, talking with neighbors, hanging out their wash to dry from upper story windows, or enjoying a cup of coffee with friends at an outdoor cafe.

One of the interesting side trips was to the Irache Monastery. Here they offered free wine (and free water) to pilgrims and travelers alike. at their self-serve outdoor fountain.  We also ducked inside for a quick visit to a once abandoned church. It was almost empty, but the carvings and statues that were left were beautiful.

Briones – while driving  toward our next destination, we spotted a sign that said “Briones 30 km”. Steve agreed to a detour in honor of our friend Rosie Briones.  The quaint town is located in the Rioja wine region of Spain.  We drove up and up, and at one point had to pull over so a tractor could pass.  We parked and walked toward a rather humble looking church. We respectfully entered and were amazed at the ornate gilded interior. It contained several small chapels, a beautiful collection of art in its treasury, and an impressive pipe organ. Although difficult to describe, it was one of the most moving experiences of our trip.

O Cebreiro – we traveled up a mountain road to this remote, rustic village that had round stone igloos with thatched roofs as houses. We found out that the animals lived on the lower levels of these houses while people lived on the upper floor so that the body heat of the animals kept the families warm.

Final stop – Santiago de Compostela – this is where the pilgrims celebrate their completion of their long journey.  We visited the cathedral along with the pilgrims who had truly made the journey.  We appreciated their dedication, and could see the evidence of their journey in their well-worn shoes, slight limps from blisters on their feet, sunburned calves, and their hunched shoulders from carrying their large hiking packs.
We toured the cathedral first. We could feel the energy from the pilgrims and other visitors as we entered this church that began in the year 1075 and contains the tomb of Saint James. We sat and admired the ornate golden altar before continuing our visit.  We marveled at the intricate carvings and statues of the prophets and angels. We learned that the carvings were done in 1180 by Maestro Mateo who has a self-portrait in the church.  It was funny to hear that it used to be a ritual for scholars from the nearby university to kneel and tap their heads three times against his to help increase their intelligence and therefore their grades!

Due to the inability of using the flash, interior pictures do not do the cathedral justice.  Search Google for pictures of what we feel is one of the most impressive (if not the most impressive) church interiors in Europe.

 

We also visited the museum where we saw more of Maestro Mateo’s carvings, the original church bells, beautiful tapestries, an incredible library of ancient scrolls and books.  We spent time enjoying the town, listening to street music including bagpipes and guitars, shopping, eating and just plain walking around enjoying the people and ambiance.

Innov-Agri Equipment Show

Upon leaving Paris, we decided to travel just 60 miles south to the small town of Outarville, France in order to attend the Innov-Agri Equipment Show. This show is held in different countries throughout Europe and is only held once every two years. We were glad that we scheduled this show into our trip.

Upon entry to the show grounds, it soon became obvious that there were differences, as well as similarities to American farm shows. Just as their American counterparts, the European show contained various manufactures from many different facets of the agriculture industry.  It soon became obvious that this show covered a much larger area and that  it required greater prior planing.  The larger area did not offer additional room for equipment displays, but rather provided areas for demonstration purposes. Crops had been strategically planted throughout the show grounds, and were at various growth stages.  This was done to provide equipment manufactures with an optimum way to showcase their latest models.  There is no better way to test a chopper’s performance than to run it through mature corn, side by side with the competition.  We enjoyed the day exploring the show, talking with fellow agriculturists, and looking at a great deal of equipment representing many areas of the agriculture industry.

 

 

The Dordogne River Valley

We then lazily drove through the French countryside enjoying the sun shinning on the of fields full of droopy headed sunflowers, drying corn, dry- farmed walnut orchards, and the occasional fortress rising above them all.

We chose the feudal village of Sarlat to use as our home-base while exploring this rich valley.  Arriving  early on market day we discovered a rich array of strawberries, fresh vegetables, walnuts, cheeses, and a selection of the regions specialty, “foie gras” (enlarged livers from force fed geese and ducks costing about $50.00 per pound).  We shopped for fresh ingredients for dinner, but  both decided against the foie gras.

The beautiful scenery and the warm weather enticed us to rent a canoe. We lazily drifted down the Dordogne River through several small hillside towns, each with their own fortress on the highest mountain top. We just docked our canoe when we wanted to look around these sleepy, relaxed towns.

We found out that this area is world-famous for their limestone caves decorated with prehistoric art.  We toured the Font de Gaume cave, and were surprised by the sense of movement, and sophistication we saw in these mysterious Cro-Magnon drawings and etchings.  Photographs are strictly forbidden so we have added several Google images in order to share our experience.

Paris 

Day 1 – Arriving in the late afternoon, setting up camp, and then taking the metro into the city at dusk was perfect. We arrived at at Eiffel Tower as the sun started to set and began our climb.  We ascended the first 400 feet using the winding metal stairway, and then crammed into the crowed elevator for the next 900 feet to the summit for great panoramic views of the city. We celebrated with a glass of champagne, enjoying the incredible night views of the city before riding back down to the second story and descending the rest of the way downm by again using the deserted stairway, while others continued on the elevator (our legs still feel every step).

Day 2 – Who, but us, spend their second day in the world capital of art, fashion and fine food doing laundry, grocery shopping and cleaning?

Day 3 and 4 – We left Paris for a tractor pull?  Not just any tractor though, the European Championships!  While in Verdun, we saw the advertisements for the event, and knew we could not pass up the opportunity to return on the weekend.  Driving 120 miles turned out to be well worth the time.  Having always heard that the Europeans are serious about this sport, we had to find out for ourselves; we were not disappointed.  in our opinion, the competition and overall quality of tractors was the best we have seen. We enjoyed the two day event. We camped with hundreds of other spectators, taking in the complete experience.

Here are a couple of my favorites.

Day 5 – Back to Paris, the incredible, vibrant city that is home to some of the world’s best art including the Mona Lisa at the famous, but somewhat overwhelming Louvre, Monet’s Water Lilies at L’Orangerie, and my favorite, the Thinker at the Rodin Museum.

Day 6 – Impressionist art has always been one of our favorites, so we decided to take a drive to Giverny, to the home and gardens of Claude Monet. I was afraid I would be disappointed, but instead I was quite charmed by the gardens, the house, and the surrounding areas.  Getting to see the water lilies that were inspiration for Monet’s most famous paintings was amazing!

Day 7- A beautiful day walking and walking through this beautiful city. We window shopped in the trendy Montmartre district, toured the 700 year old Cathedral of Notre Dame, and finally walked under the street to the the magnificent Arc de Triomphe that Napoleon had commissioned to commemorate his victory in the 100 year war.

 

 

Day 8 – Time to continue our journey onward. We decided to first take a quick side-trip to the Palace of Versailles.  This gilded palace of all palaces, is where the Treaty of Versailles was signed (one of the peace treaties signed at the end of World War I), where the the the opulence and extravagance of the French monarchy began with King Louis XIV and ended with  King Louis XI and Marie Antoinette.

When we crossed the Rhine River, we began our journey into France.  We apologize for the delay in posts, it was surprising to find internet in France difficult to obtain or very expensive.  Other than that, we hope you find France as interesting and full of history as we did.

Verdun

With World War I having been fought over 100 years ago, there are no remaining veterans living to tell the story of the Battle of Verdun.  If they were alive today, they would want the world to remember that in just 300 days, 230,000 men lost their lives in an area covering only 8 square miles.  Evidence of what took place during those 300 days are still seen to this day,  As we traveled over the cratered landscape where 60 million artillery shells were fired, and where complete towns were destroyed, we reflected on the horrific battles of this “senseless” war.  There are still many signs that this area was completely devastated.  Partial trenches, old barbed wire, old hidden military forts, gun batteries and signs posted to warn visitors that some areas are still unsafe to enter due to unexploded shells that remain, even 100 years later.  It was eerie to visit towns that were completely destroyed, with only plaques telling us where the baker once had his shop, where the church once stood….

We visited many somber and thought provoking memorials along the way, but none more humbling than the Douaumont Ossuary. It is more than a memorial; it holds the bones of over 200,000 French and German soldiers who were killed on the muddy fields of Verdun. After the war, the Bishop of Verdun, Monseigneur Ginsty, felt solders deserved a proper burial and began collecting their remains and commissioned the building of this memorial. Solders’bones were officially collected from 1920 to 1932 and placed in the memorial.  Even today, 100 years later, remains are unearthed by local farmers,  We were deeply moved and would forever remember our visit.

 

 

Alsace

The province of Alsace in France is near the German border which is evident in the style of architecture.  In fact, Alsace has changed flags several times over its history.  We heard both German and French spoken interchangeably as we strolled through the various towns in this region.

We camped in Colmar and biked into town our first night.  The town was enchanting.  We enjoyed wine tasting, then ate a late dinner of crepes and baeckeoffe at the cozy Crep’Stub Creperie.

Early the next morning, we biked to the nearby town of Eguisheim where we hiked for twenty minutes up a steep hill . We were rewarded with more climbing!  As we arrived at the castle ruins, we noticed a tower and ascended the narrow winding steps to the top. The views of the vineyards, towns, and valleys below were our true reward.

Reims

Although only an hour from Verdun, the mood was very different from its somber neighbor of Verdun.   It is here that Champgne was first invented, twenty-six kings were crowned, and where the Germany officially surrendered in 1945, ending World War II.

Reims has a lively old town, with many shops, cafés, a beautiful cathedral with an enchanting statue of a mischievously smiling angel.  Reims is also home to a Carnegie Library. It was funded by an American who believed that knowledge could put an end to all wars.

The Reims Cathedral of Notre Dame – our visit to this beautiful cathedral was enlightening and educational.  Inside this Gothic masterpiece, we took in the incredible stained glass, the stunning art work and life-like statues,  Unlike other churches we had visited, this one also had place cards with the history of the region. They included pictures of the community rebuilding the cathedral after World War I as it had been targeted and hit with over 300 German shells. One picture really stood out. It was of a group of people attempting to put back together the shattered stained glass windows

 

 

 

 

Padua
The Italian province of Padua is a treasure chest of extraordinary richness with its walled medieval cities, art, hills, lakes, and castles. These are all linked by waterways with beautiful bicycle trails that we were quick to take advantage of. All three of us us biked to the neighboring walled cities of Monselice, Este, and then Montagnana,  following the canals and waterways that flow through the province.

Each of these beautiful medieval cities contained one or more traffic-free squares. Town squares are an ancient concept that continues their usefulness today. These squares are often about the size of two football fields, and are lined with cafes, restaurants with outdoor seating, and shops.  They are great places for meeting people, lingering over a cup of coffee (or for Giana, lingering over a Spritz), or for watching people out for their evening stroll.

Basilica of Saint Anthony, Padua – the relatively plain red brick exterior, guarded by Donatello’s life-size equestrian statue, did nothing to prepare us for the incredible beauty inside of the Basilica of Saint Anthony. Each of us agreed that it was the most beautiful, and spiritually moving church we had visited on our trip.  Pictures were not allowed inside the basilica at all, and I am unsure if they could do it justice anyway, but no words could describe the vibrant colors, the intricate stained glass or the gleaming white marble tomb of Saint Anthony himself.

As we entered, we saw Donatello’s crucifix, as well as seven other statues by the great Florentine sculptor who spent more than ten years of his life creating the altar.  After reflecting on, and appreciating the use of space, light and color, we made our way to St. Anthony’s tomb.  This entire area was carved in gleaming white marble, and included nine reliefs showing times in the life of the saint. These clearly demonstrated  the Renaissance mastery of realism  as each of the 3-D faces showed vivid emotion, and each frame was intricately carved. The saint’s remains have been contained in this tomb for over seven centuries.

There were three other chapels inside the basilica that were each impressively painted from the year 1500 to the year 1700.  Stained glass windows added to the majesty of each chapel.  Each of us felt blessed to have been able to visit this impressive medieval church.

We were sad to leave this beautiful and  friendly area for several reasons. We enjoyed our time here, but sadly it was time to return to Venice to take Giana to the airport so she could return to Berkeley for classes.  Our next stops (sans Giana) would be the Verona, the real-life setting for the fictional story of Romeo and Juliet, and then off to the Dolomites in Northern Italy.

Verona

This town boasts about being the real life setting for the story of Romeo and Juliet with its feuding families, the Montecchi and the Capellos as models for Shakespeare’s Montagues and Capulets.  We spent time visiting its Roman ruins including an arena built in the same fashion as the more famous Colosseum in Rome.

 

The Dolomites and the Italian Alpes
The Perfect Day – We arrived at a campground that had unbelievable views of the mountains and the valleys below. The camper sites were full, but they made room for us in a spacious tent site with views of  the Dolomites looming in the background.  After settling in, we walked to the next town on a dirt trail that cut through the forest and afforded us beautiful views of the valley below. When finally we arrived, we  rode on an Areial  Cableway (an enclosed ski lift ) to the Alpe di Siusi.  It  lifted us 1000 feet to Europe’s largest alpine meadow.

Farming the Alps

To our pleasant surprise, the Italian alps are home to a great deal of agriculture. Small dairies, grape vineyards and most of all apples cover much of the arable land within this beautiful area.  In fact, the Alps are believed to have more than 20,000 family growers growing 28,000 hectares of apples (nearly 70,000 acres).  It’s hard to image until you see it, apples are everywhere you look.  We were lucky enough to be traveling during harvest  and were able to observe the operation first hand.

In addition to apples, we found it fascinating to see small dairies scattered throughout the area.  Cows graze in pastures as high as 6700 feet in elevation during the summer, and are then moved lower during the winter (unsure if it’s for the cows sake or to make room for the skiers).  We watched as a local farmer bailed grass hay and two workers followed behind with hand rakes making sure not a blade was missed.  It is a different type of agriculture than we are used to, but meets the needs of the family farmer.

 

 

Venice – a city with no cars, boats for taxis and arguably the world’s best gelato, is comprised of 100 islands connected by 400 bridges and 2000 narrow alleys that allow you to escape the crowds and retreat into a world of idyllic charm.

We visited Venice for five days and I could have stayed longer.  The city charmed me with its ancient washed-out colors, iron window screens, flowering window boxes, plethora of specialty shops, charming squares with outdoor cafes, and beautiful churches.

Our first impression of Venice was one of intense crowds (we don’t do crowds well).  We arrived on the island at noon, and were overwhelmed by the crowds.  We attempted to view a few sights, but soon decided to get off the beaten track and explore aimlessly.  Our explorations were rewarded with incredible views of the city, its small alleyways and small cafés where we enjoyed lunch as the locals did and homemade gelato that could be described as art.   We decided that escaping the crowd had been the right choice and would continue to visit this historic city, but only in the early mornings before the cruise ships dropped off tourists by the hundreds, and in the evening when most tourists had returned home.

We toured the next two days on the Vaporetto, the city’s water bus, getting on and off at different stops. We enjoyed the incredible views cruising the Grand Canal (the city’s “main street”), as well as the waterways between the larger islands.  The experience was entirely different in the evening after the tourists left and left us with the usually crowded boat, all to ourselves.

Venice at night was magical!  There were few people out walking, and the larger squares with outdoor cafés had live classical music for our enjoyment.  In San Marco’s square, the largest of the squares, there were three “dueling orchestras”.  These three to five piece orchestras situated around the square would take turns playing booth classical and modern music to see who could engage the crowd the most. It was quite fun. We clapped, danced, and truly enjoyed the ambiance of fun and romance.