Italy

Espresso breaks, crazy drivers, and green rolling hills.

Bringing Dakota across the Tyrrhenian Sea from Spain to Italy was bittersweet. We loved Spain and had scheduled just two weeks to visit our favorite parts of Italy before taking Dakota to the dock in Genova  for her journey back home.   We started this journey 5 months ago thinking we would have enough time to visit everywhere we wanted.  As this quest comes to an end, we now realize how wrong we were.

Smooth sailing on the way to Italy.

Smooth sailing on the way to Italy.

Umbrian Countryside

The countryside of Italy is stunning. After driving through fierce wind and tormenting rain, attempting to understand directions in Italian, and taking a dirt road (because the main road was closed due to downed trees) we finally made it to our first stop, Orvieto. Our camp was at the base of the walled city, right next to the funicular that would take us up the hill.  As we walked around town the next morning, we noted the striped black and white stonework of Orvieto’s Duomo.  Even though we have visited many churches, we are always in awe of the craftsman ship of the mosaics, stained glass, carvings, and paintings.

We shopped a little in this historic town.  Maria, at Arte del Cuoio, made purses right on site.  We ordered a couple for gifts and watched as Maria expertly cut the leather with a blade and then began crafting our purses.

After ordering a purse, Maria immediately began crafting the leather that would soon take shape as our bag.

After ordering a purse, Maria immediately began crafting the leather that would soon take shape as our bag.

Assisi – home of Saint Frances

 

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Beautiful Italian hill towns

The Umbrian countryside rivals the the beauty of the Tuscan Hills. Here we saw rich farms and vineyards with grapes, oranges, lemons, olives and even chestnut trees.

We attempted to ride our bikes to Assisi through the spectacular countryside, but didn’t quite make it.  Our path was blocked and we had to turn back.  We returned to camp and resorted to the taking the bus. It was a nice bike ride though, in fact, probably the most scenic of our trip.

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Jeanette leading the way.

I think were lost!

I think we’re lost!

A selfie to show off my new haircut (and the Basilica of  Saint Francis)

A selfie to show off my new haircut (and the Basilica of Saint Francis).

 

The Basilica of St. Francis
This basilica had many relics from St. Francis, including his tunic, some of his writings signed with his signature tau cross (last letter in Hebrew alphabet and symbolizes being faithful to the end), the chalice and plate he used for the Eucharist, and his simple knotted rope tie that are used as a reminder of a monk’s vows.

Who could argue with the message of St. Francis?  He treated each creature, whether prince or pauper, or even animal equally, with respect.  His message of living simply, and taking care of the environment is just as important today as it was in the 11th century.

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The actual tunics of St. Francis and St. Claire.

We enjoyed just wandering and finding our peace away from the crowds.

So many stairs in hill towns/

So many stairs in hill towns.

Wondering the streets of Tuscan hill towns.

Wondering the streets of Tuscan hill towns.

We met Raul that owned a small farm just a few miles from Montepulciano.  He ran a campground while growing grapes and olives.  Here he brought us a liter of his wine.

We met Raul who owned a small farm just a few miles from Montepulciano. He ran a campground while growing grapes and olives. Here he brought us a liter wine made from his grapes..

 

Pisa and Lucca

Pisa –  like the Eiffel Tower, the Leaning Tower of Pisa is worth the visit.  It is much more impressive in person than in pictures.  It actually leans 15 feet to the south and it appears ready to tumble at any time.  We rode our bikes to town (no hills here), and walked through the impressive Duomo.

Goo thing we weren't here during the busy season.

Good thing we weren’t here during the busy season.

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The amazing Giovanni Pisano pulpit is a highlight of the Duomo with 400 intricately carved marble figures.

 

The town of Pisa is so much more than its famous tower.  We biked through the town (finding the best ice cream of our entire trip), over the bridge crossing the Arno River, and through Pisa’s historic squares.

A bike trip along the Arno river.

A bike trip along the Arno river.

The walled city of Lucca, even without any famous sights, is still one of our favorite places.  We enjoyed biking atop the Renaissance wall while enjoying the views of the town below with its many gardens,  walking to town at nightfall in the rain (and walking back in harder rainfall ), and browsing the back streets of the town by day. This is the perfect place to just linger, relax and enjoy great company and wonderful food.

Old walled city of Lucca.

Old walled city of Lucca.

Castle roof top garden?

Castle roof top garden?

Jeanette, the camp site gourmet.

Jeanette, the camp site gourmet.

 

Siena

This Tuscany hill town seems to be everyone’s favorite destination with good reason. Lounging at a cafe in the main square, IL Campo, watching all types of people relaxing and enjoying the day,  we were hard pressed to find any fault with this mostly traffic-free historic town.
Fun-fact:). The color Burnt Siena is named for the color of the soil in Siena.

IL Campo, the town square is the home to the famous Palio horse races.  It’s hard to imagine the horses and the crowds when we see people just plopping down on the bricks, and chillin’.

IL Campo night life, Siena

IL Campo night life, Siena

We enjoyed the green and white striped Duomo and the museum in Siena. The Duomo contains incredible artwork, Including beautiful mosaic floors and statues by Michelangelo and sculptures by Bernini.

Siena Dumeo

Siena Duomo

Amazing architecture

Amazing architecture

The inside of the Siena Deumo is more like a museum.

The inside of the Siena Duomo more like a museum.

Ruffugio, Santa Margarita, and Portofino – the Italian Rivierra.

About an half hour from Portofino, also know as the land of the rich and famous, is Santa Margarita, a beautiful, gleaming harbor-front town that offered us fabulous restaurants, restful strolls and relaxing beach life, as well as top-notch shopping if the spirit had moved us (never with Steve).

Portofino -the jewelry shops, the haute couture, and numerous boutiquesand beautiful views are exactly why people come here.  We came too, but didn’t stay long, instead we just rolled in on the bus and out again –   We did enjoy the views of the pristine waters and interesting architecture as we walked between the towns.

The Italian Riveria

The Italian Riviera

One of the many beaches of the area

One of the many fancy beaches of the area.  The water is a beautiful blue-green.

Off to Gevona, time to get ready for the trip home.

Off to Genova, time to get ready for Dakota’s  trip home, and our flight to the Azores.

 

 

 

 

Welcome to Friendly Spain – Take 2

At the beginning of our journey we thought we would have time to visit “everywhere”.  Of course in reality, we knew that was not true, but we didn’t know how true!  There are so many places we felt we had to skip because of our time restraints; places we really wanted to visit.  I guess that leaves us with future destinations for the next excursion.

Seville – Siestas and Sunshine

Beautiful weather, siestas and cultural pride were all evident in Seville.  The architecture was beautiful and the history immense.  As the “gateway to the new world”, great explorers like Ferdinand Magellan and Amerigo Vespucci were sailing from this port in the 16th century. During this time,  Seville became an economic and cultural center for Spain.

We enjoyed walking through this lively town.  There were activities everywhere; free concerts in the park in the evenings, flamenco music and dancers, students from the university everywhere, and cloistered nuns selling rosaries and unleavened crackers from behind a wall  where you can speak to them, but not see them.  They put your items on a revolving rack and turn it until you get your item.

 

 

We bought a package of unleavened bread and a rosary from the cloistered nuns.

We bought a package of unleavened bread and a rosary from the cloistered nuns.

Unsure how we felt about bullfighting, we decided to tour the Bullfight Museum to give us a taste of what happens in the ring.  We walked through the bullring, saw the heads of a few bulls, the costumes of past matadors, the lances used by the picadores to pierce the neck of the bull, and the sharpened sticks the banderilleros use to stick into the shoulder of the bull.

Bull fighting arena quiet on this sunny afternoon.

Bull fighting arena quiet on this sunny afternoon.

Tribute to some of the best matadors.

Tribute to some of the bravest matadors.

Tribute to some of the bravest bulls

Tribute to some of the bravest bulls.

Once there was a bull so mean and evil that after killing a matador, the commission ordered him and his mother to be killed.  Here is the cow and her story.

Once there was a bull so mean and evil that after killing a matador, the commission ordered him and his mother to be killed. Here is the head of the cow.  She even looks evil.

Centered in sivlCathedral and Giralda Bell Tower is the largest Gothic church in the world and contains the tomb of Christopher Columbus.

Centered in Seville, the Cathedral is the largest Gothic church in the world and contains the tomb of Christopher Columbus.

Dos Hermanas

We camped in the small town of Dos Hermanas about 4 kms from Seville.  On our evening walk, we ended up in a town square that consisted of swings and a children’s play area, that was surrounded by small cafés and bars, all with outdoor seating.  There we saw families everywhere, even though it was nine at night.  We were enthralled, so we ordered a drink at a cafe and just sat and watched.  Kids were playing tag, running around, falling down, getting up, climbing fences, playing soccer, all without intervention from adults, yet under the close eyes of everyone there. It was amazing.  Adults of all ages were out enjoying the companionship of other adults. It was great. The weather had cooled and everyone (in the whole town it seemed) was enjoying an evening outside.

Saturday morning we walked into town again and saw a similar scene.   This time older men and women were out getting fresh bread, talking to each other, families were enjoying the 2 euro breakfast of a jamon sandwich, cafe, orange juice and fruit at the neighborhood cafes. We were welcomed into the cafe, graciously shown how to prepare our sandwich and then joined the group outside.  Amazing.

Magical Madrid

Although we, for sure, have not been to every city, it is hard to image a better city than Madrid. Each day we continued to be amazed at the architecture, the ambiance, and the wonderful people of this bustling city.

Architecture of Madrid

Architecture of Madrid

We visited three art museums over three days and enjoyed each of them.

The Prado – one one the world’s greatest museums with over 3000 canvases of incredible art including works by Francisco de Goya, Raphael (my favorite), Peter Paul Rubens, El Greco as well as being home to Diego Velazquez’s Las Menimas. We were amazed and a little overwhelmed by all of the masterpieces we examined and enjoyed.  (Sadly no photos were allowed in this museum.)

Raphael

Raphael’s painting ” Portrait of a Cardinal”

The Thyssen-Bornemisza Museum- this museum was fun as it was smaller and contained art from many different periods, from Primitive all the way through Surrealism, and even Pop Art.

Hmmm...

Hmmm…

Centro do Arte Reina Sofia – this modern art museum was perhaps our favorite out of all the museums we have visited.  It is home to many Picasso’s, but his massive (11 feet tall and 25.6 feet wide) Guardia is an impressive masterpiece, and was thoroughly the most thought-provoking work we had ever seen as it captured a moment of horror in world history

This museum amazed us with works of art by Goya (Proto-Modern), Salvador Dali (Surrealism), Matisse and Picasso (cubism), Jackson Pollock (Abstract Expressionism), as well as Nouvel Art from the 1960’s through the 1980’s.

Picasso's Guardia is an amazing painting depicting the April 26, 1937 Nazi bombing of Guarida, Spain

Picasso’s Guardia is an amazing painting depicting the April 26, 1937 Nazi bombing of Guarida, Spain

The Modern art of Angeles Santos makes you think.

The Modern art of Angeles Santos.  It makes you think.

Madrid seemed to have a magic all its own. The people were friendly and gregarious.  We enjoyed our times at Puerto de Sol,  where the first night we were served free tapas with our drinks. The next night the cook brought us out fresh rice and shrimp straight from the kitchen, and the waiter shared with us types meat and fish in Spanish so we could learn them and we taught him the names in English in return.

We were served sardines, salami, jamon and bread, all for the cost of a one euro cana (small beer).

Every one is friendly in Madrid, especially Manuel behind the bar at P

Everyone is friendly in Madrid, but none more so than the staff at Cafeteria Puerto de Sol.  This is a really bad picture but we felt we needed to put it here.

Beer and Sardines.

Beer and Sardines.

 Fraga 

Another detour, this one for Mia Fraga Ball.

We followed road signs to Fraga, Spain. . As we drove through this town, we noticed everyone, every single man, woman, child, baby, and even dog, was wearing all white with orange bandannas.  We wondered, could it be there could be a soccer match in town?  We walked around this rather modern town of 15,000 people. After talking to many Fraga residence, we found out that we had arrived during the week of the Fiesta del Pilar. Fraga’s celebration called Pena Fragatina.   The community spirit was evident as evening drifted in, and the community rallied together and enjoyed Fraga’s traditional pastries, wine, music, dancing, and companionship.

Local students enjoying the celebration.

Local students enjoying the celebration. with Dakota,

View of Fraga

View of Fraga

We made it!  I thought everyone drove small cars because of the gas prices.

We made it! I thought everyone drove small cars because of the gas prices.  Not many lifted diesel trucks in this town.

Beautiful Barcelona

The closest campground to Barcelona was 45 minutes away.  This is the first time on our trip that there would be such a distance to travel to get to the city.  The good news, the campsite offered a free shuttle into the city and back each day, and the campsite was directly across the street from the beach allowing us beautiful views all day long, and especially in the evening as the sky would change colors to glorious reds and grays as the sun dropped below the horizon.

Enjoying the beach near Barcelona.

Enjoying the beach near Barcelona.

Christoper Columbus Memorial - Barcelona.

Christoper Columbus Memorial – Barcelona.  Notice the Indian kissing the cross the priest is holding.  Maybe a little controversial in the states. The statue is 200 feet tall.

 

The La Boqueria  market in down town Barcelona.  offers goods that are different than were accustomed to.

The La Boqueria market in down town Barcelona. offered a variety of yummy meats?

Jamon everywhere

Jamon everywhere.

Ramblas walk

Ramblas walk.  Beautiful day.

Roman necropolis centenary recently discovered while excavating for a construction project.  Tomb stone contain dates from the first century AD.

Roman necropolis recently discovered while excavating for a construction project. Tombstone contain dates from the first century AD.

Sagrada Família, started in 1882 is still not complete.  Notice the three cranes working amongst the hordes of tourists.

Sagrada Família, started in 1882 is still not complete. Notice the three cranes working amongst the hordes of tourists.

We love Spain

We love Spain!

Work day and work breaks –  we needed a work day, so we purchased internet from the camp office for 24 hours. After working half a day, we decided to take a walk up the beach. What a beautiful day!  The walk began rocky and then ended at a pebbly expanse of perfect sunbathing beach.  Yep, work day indeed!

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🙂

 

Portugal – Take 2

Don’t forget to see the extra pictures in our pictures section

Lisbon (Lisboa)

Although we spent an entire week in this city, I don’t think I will ever tire of its beauty, It has the charm and feel of a small village yet the hustle and bustle of Portugal’s largest city. We walked, took the metro, the bus, the vintage trolley, the ferry, and the funiculars as we explored the sprawling landscape. There was so much to see, experience, and do! We admired the Art Nouveau buildings with painted tiles (azulejo) adorning the facades and elaborate ironwork balconies.

We enjoyed the traditional food, walked narrow stairways connecting the squares and avenues, learned about Fernando Pessao, one of Portugal’s favored poets, and listened to the heart-wrenching Fado music in this town that was devastated in an earthquake in 1755.  An earthquake with enough magnitude to level two-thirds of its buildings.

Believe it or not, one of the highlights of our visit was touring the National Tile Museum (Museu Nacional do Azulejo). The traditional tiles grace both the interior and exterior of houses, churches, and businesses throughout Portugal. Beautiful!

Beautiful historical tile panels.

Beautiful historical tile panels.

Lisbon's Tile Museum is housed in the old convent, Mother of God.  The quality of art work and tile designs are unbelievable.

Lisbon’s Tile Museum is housed in the old convent, Mother of God. The quality of art work and tile designs are unbelievable.

All the wall space in the convent is covered by either tile or paintings,

All the wall space in the convent is covered by either tile work or paintings,

The city of Lisbon had a San Francisco feel to it for many reasons. The vintage trolleys were similar to the ones in SF, also the bridge built in 1966, one of the world’s longest suspension bridges at 3,280 feet between towers, was built by the same company that built the Golden Gate Bridge.

Lisbon's 26 de April bridge, very similar to San Francisco's Golden Gate

Lisbon’s 26 de April bridge, very similar to San Francisco’s Golden Gate.  Notice the Christ statue on the hill to the left, a copy of the one in Rio de Janeiro.

Lisbon trolley, a big help on this hilly city.

Lisbon trolley, a big help in this hilly city..

The Belem area of Lisbon is home to Portugal’s current president.  It is also home to the 16th century Jeronimos Monastery where we attended a beautiful mass (in Portuguese). The limestone interior and exterior were elaborate   The monastery is where the tomb of the explorer, Vasco da Gama lies.

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Jeronimos Monastery, While waiting in line to see the monastery, the ushers stopped the line, when asked why, they said that mass was getting ready to begin. Being a quick thinker and being Catholic, I quickly responded, “I thought this line was for the mass”. We were immediately let in and enjoyed the Portuguese mass in this beautiful church.

Jeronimos Monastery

Jeronimos Monastery

Soa Jorge Castle built in the 11th century by the Moors, afforded us some beautiful views of the city and the port.

Sao George Castje

Visiting Sao Jorge Castle

Castle view

View from castle wall

While in Lisbon we had the opportunity to visit Antonio Riberio and his incredible staff at Vintage Vans.  We were familiar with the Vintage Vans web site, and since Dakota needed some work, I thought we would stop buy and introduce ourselves.  Vintage Vans is a Volkswagen shop that specializes in the repair and restoration of classic vehicles and they do amazing work.  The owner Antonio,  showed us around, while his staff graciously agreed to  change the oil and repaire the drivers window on Dakota.  It turned out to be an enjoyable several hours meeting new people and talking about old Volkswagens.

Dakota ready to go.

Dakota ready to go.  Thanks Antonio and staff!

See Antonio's work at http://www.vintagevans.com.pt/

See Antonio’s work at http://www.vintagevans.com.pt/

The Instituto Superior de Agronomia-

While in Lisbon, we were pleased to tour Portugal’s largest agricultural college, The Instituto Superior de Agronomia. The institution was founded in 1852 and has a current enrollment of 2000 students, all of which are agriculture majors.  When we arrived we were welcomed by Paula in the International Relations office and were given a brief history of the school and an orientation to the campus,  The first several buildings were bustling with students making their way to class, or just hanging out in the halls enjoying each others company.  As the tour continued, we soon noticed that the majority of the 200 acre campus was underutilized.  There was a crops unit, yet only about half was being effectively used, livestock units without livestock, and worst of all, farm shops that appeared to be only storage for equipment no longer needed.  I asked why the units were empty and the answer was that they were no longer used.  It appears that the campus is presently in economic trouble, and they are struggling to provide services to students.

University administration building.

University administration building.

Farm shops no longer used.  While looking in the window I set off the alarm and had to explane to security (who didnt speak english) what happened,

Farm shops no longer used. While looking in the window. I set off the alarm and had to explain to a security officer (who didn’t speak English) what had happened,

Campus vineyard, notice the campus is located in the heart of Lisbon.

Campus vineyard, notice the campus is located in the heart of Lisbon.

The Algarve – The Atlantic Coast of Portugal 

The edge of the world as it was formerly known in the days of Christopher Columbus, is the southwestern most tip of Europe. We visited Cape Sagres and its fort where Henry the Navigator founded his school. It is here that in 1476 Christopher Columbus washed ashore after being shipwrecked. According to the fort brochure, Ferdinand Magellan, Pedro Cabral, Vasco da Gama, and Bartholomew Dias each studied here.

We toured the fort and walked around the historic coast pretending to be students in the 1500’s studying mapmaking, shipbuilding, astronomy, mathematics and languages. Each sailor had to keep a travel journal that could be studied for the advancement of all.

The south western most tip of Europe.  Notice the US East Coast off in the distance.

The southwestern most tip of Europe. Notice the US East Coast off in the distance. 🙂

Google image of Sagres Fort and navigational school.

Google image of Sagres Fort and Navigatiors’ School.

Salema and Lagos

Two busy  beach towns with cobbled streets, with ample places to sun bathe, rent a cabana or a nicely padded wooden lounge chair, and enjoy a cold drink, the views, and some music. Although we appreciated and enjoyed the splendid views, we spent little time in these beautiful towns that were full of tourists from both England and the Netherlands, and full of souvenir shops and cafés where all the staff spoke English. It was not the experience we were looking for, so we moved on.

Spending so much time on the road, we tried to stay off the expressways, and instead drive the smaller roads that often would take us through agricultural areas and small towns where we would stop for coffee, bread, or gas for Dakota. It was during these visits that we would meet some of the nicest, most interesting people on our trip.

Small coastal towns of Portugal.

Small coastal towns of Portugal.

Taking these smaller back roads on our way to Tavira, and enjoying the beautiful countryside, we found ourselves waiting as a farmer crossed the street with his herd of goats, we also slowed as people traveled by horse and carriage. As we continued, we saw some impressive old olive groves with trees trunks thick with age, cork groves with signs of being newly stripped, neat piles of cork from a past harvest, and pine trees with scored trunks and buckets collecting sap.

Cork piled high after harvest.

Cork piled high after harvest.

Never know what you will see on the road.

Never know what you will see on the road.

Beautiful coastal views

Beautiful coastal views

Coastal houses covered in tile

Coastal houses covered in tile

Salt harvest

Sea salt harvest along the bike path to Tavia.  The area is covered with evaporation ponds.

Lagos town center

Lagos town center, Beautiful!

We arrived at our campsite late in the day, and began setting up camp when a Jorge and his wife stopped by on their bikes to say hello. We talked for quite a while, and he invited us to watch a soccer match with him in a nearby bar the next night.

While I went to get fresh bread, Steve unhooked the bikes from the rack so we could so we could ride the easy 7 kms to town. We looked forward to the ride as we were told that there was a bike path almost the entire way. Well, the path was gravel, and lined in some places by three foot tall sticker bushes. Guess who skidded on the edge where the gravel was the thickest, crashed her bike, ended up covered in little needles, bleeding from both knees and had so many stickers she looked like a porcupine? Yep. I added pricked arms and legs, and scabbed knees from this crash, to the blistered and burned leg from my coffee spill in Fatima, to the never recovered sore right knee from when I crashed my bike on the sidewalk in Berlin with Giana. Yep, call me Crash ( or just plain clumsy).

Crash

Crash (gross)

 

We rode slowly back to camp as a blood vessel in my left leg started to swell, I then showered, and tried to pull out all the stickers, changed clothes and then started off once again (made it this time ). Town was beautiful. A great place to vacation or even retire. We noticed the distinct style of architecture and unusual chimney types.

The highlight of our stay here in Tavira was cycling to a different part of town in the evening and watching the soccer game with Jorge. He was intelligent, easy to talk to, and well versed in many areas. We laughed together over similar Portuguese traditions here and in the U.S. We talked about the 102 ways to cook bacalao ( it was only 101, but Steve added a new one), eating altramuces at fiestas, Easter sweetbread, religion, politics, traditions, soccer, and fondnesses for grandmas.

When the  soccer game ended, and we spent a couple more hours talking, then unlocked our bikes, turned on bike lights (I had to hold a small flashlight in my hand as I broke mine off in the earlier fall), and peddled back to camp.

The next day we were heading towards Seville, Spain, and slept in late. On our way out of the campsite, we headed over to wish Jorge and his wife an enjoyable and safe holiday, only to find that he and his wife were already off on their morning bike ride. Alas, we left them a note fastened to their table by a water bottle and headed off toward Spain.

Jorge's camp, stopped to say goodbye but they had already left for town.  Hope our paths cross again someday.

Jorge’s camp, stopped to say goodbye but they had already left for town. Hope our paths cross again someday.

 

 

Portugal – Take 1

We apologize for the delay in posts, spotty internet and scheduling seemed to get in the way.

Upon leaving Santiago we chose to continue down the coast into Portugal, We were enjoying Spain and were sad to leave, but decided we would return to Spain via Seville later in the month.

Porto, Portugal – The Inventors of Port Wine

As we entered into this country of kind and welcoming people, we were greeted by colorful houses that were somehow even more beautiful with laundry hanging from their upper windows, red tiled roofs (sometimes these had fallen in), tall winding hills doted with churches, and of course shimmering blue water, as Porto is located where the Douro River converges into the Atlantic Ocean.

Porto, Steve’s favorite town thus far, is a charming place to walk and enjoy narrow cobblestoned (impossible to walk on in heels) roads, visit breathtakingly beautiful churches, learn about Fado music and taste port wine.

Its easy to notice the change in architecture as we move across Europe.

Its easy to notice the change in architecture and style as we move across Europe.  There is no doubt that Portugal is the place to find tile or as the natives call it “azulejo”.

Tile covering the side of this government building.

Tile covering the side of this government building.

City view

City view

View after climbing the 252 steps to the top of the Clerigo Tower.

View after climbing the 252 steps to the top of the Clerigo Tower.

Additional tower view

Additional tower view

The Gothic architecture of Sao Francis Church with a Baroque interior and lavish use of gold filigree.

The Gothic architecture of Sao Francis Church with a Baroque interior and lavish use of gold filigree.

Church chapel

Church chapel

Steve loved Porto and feels an affinity toward the wonderful people of Portugal.  It’s not because he is half Portuguese, but instead it’s because the Portuguese people we have had the pleasure of meeting are animated friendly and loud, just like him.

Coimbra

Coimbra is home to Portugal’s oldest and most prestigious university. We wanted to visit and we were advised to take the funicular/elevator that would lift us up the long, steep hill to the university grounds. We were insulted to have someone think we were too old and decrepit to walk to the college, so we started up the very narrow, very roughly cobbled streets. We should have listened. :). It was fun walking through the expressive student housing, and seeing how students are students anywhere.

Coimbra University student housing.

Coimbra University student housing. Notice the bicycle storage from the balcony.

The university was founded in the year 1290 and is housed in a former royal palace overlooking the city. We spoke with a few students wearing their traditional uniform of a black cape.  They were very well versed and each spoke English fluently.

University courtyard

University courtyard

View from the college.  We started our walk at the bottom of the hill.

View from the college. We started our walk at the bottom of the hill.

Coimbra market

Coimbra farmer’s market

Historical architecture found throughout the city of Coimbra

Historical architecture found throughout the city of Coimbra.

Batalha- Monastery of Santa Maria

We stopped to visit this fancy late-Gothic monastery on our way to Fatima.  The elaborate exterior did not prepare us for the planned simplicity and lack of ornamentation inside. The interior was dramatic in its simplicity and high arched ceilings.

Church exterior shows appears to have a Moors influence (medieval Muslims)

Church exterior shows appears to have a Moors influence (medieval Muslims)

Church Cloister

Church Cloister

Portugal’s Tomb of Unknown Soldier resides here under the Christ of the Trenches crucifix, housed within the cathedral. Soldiers actually carried this very cross into battle in World War I.  After the battle, French solders found the crucifix among the rubble and returned it to Portugal.  It now stands as a memorial for Portuguese veterans of war.

Tomb of the unknown soldger.

Tomb of the Unknown Soldier. 

The double tomb (sarcophagus) of King John I and Queen Phillippa holding hands in the center of founders chapel was impressive.  The tomb of their son, Henry the Navigator is also in the chapel.

The double tomb (sarcophagus) of King John I and Queen Phillippa holding hands in the center of founders chapel was impressive. The tomb of their son, Henry the Navigator is also in the chapel.

Fatima– It is said that Portugal is proud of their three “F’s”, Fatima, Fado, and Football (soccer to us Americans).

After setting up camp (there was free camping for visitors), we decided to walk around, even though it was getting late.  We noticed a mass going on outside (in Portuguese) and checked to see if an English mass was available.  There was one!  Only one, and it was to be at 5:30 the next morning. We decided we’d attend,   We entered the Basilica that houses the tombs of the three children . We then walked outside and sat by the tree where the apparitions occured.   As it was almost midnight, we returned to Dakota, we set our alarm for 4:00 a.m. and  went to bed.

As soon as the alarm went off the next morning, we jumped out of bed, rushed to the showers, being quiet as to not wake anyone else. After dressing carefully, we headed off to mass. When we arrived, there was no one else there!  Steve then remembered that in Portugal the time was one hour earlier than Spain, and he had not reset his clock. We trudged back to camp (where I made coffee and then managed to spill the boing hot liquid down my leg and into my shoe).  We did make it to mass at 5:00 a.m. smelling like coffee, even though we had not had any to drink.  After mass, we headed to the visitors center (yes, it was open at 6:00a.m.).The very kind and helpful woman told us about additional sights nearby including the houses of the children.  It was a humbling experience.  Returning to town we stopped at a few souvenir shops  (there were hundreds), headed back to the bus for lunch and a nap.

Fatima Basilica Portugal

Fatima Basilica Portugal

Huge modern crucifix

Huge modern crucifix over 100 feet high and 50 feet wide.

Obidos

This entirely walled city was a wonder to behold. We climbed up and entered through its main gate and wondered at the narrow cobbled lanes. We then climbed the 14th century steep, uneven steps to the 45 foot high sentry path. We followed the sometimes treacherous wall above and around the city enjoying the views below of the red roofed, white washed dwellings with their traditional blue and bright yellow trim.

We walked the cobbled narrow lanes, had our first taste of ginjinha, Portugal’s famous cherry liquor served in an edible chocolate cup, and enjoyed the history- filled town (founded by the Celt’s in 300 B.C., then ruled by the Romans, then the Moors).

Beautiful walled city

Beautiful walled city

Watch your step, its a long way down.

Watch your step, its a long way down.

Nazare

If it were the middle of summer, this quaint little town would be overwhelmed with tourists. As it is October, we had it mostly to ourselves. As we walked downtown, elderly ladies would ask us, in Portuguese, if we wanted to rent one of the rooms in their homes. At first we did not understand, but then we saw the piece of cardboard in their hands that read “quartos, room?”  It was touching and charming.  Everyone we met was kind and helpful. The atmosphere was relaxed, the views of colorful laundry hanging from the colorful buildings, the salted fish hanging out to dry, the beautiful coastal views, and the drizzling evening  rains  were all magical in this wonderful town.

View of Nazar and the beach taken from the old part of town on the hill.

View of Nazare and the beach taken from the old part of town on the hill.

You can drive right to the edge.

You can drive right to the edge.

But you have to be careful!

But you have to be careful!

It rained for five days straight! Just another day in paradise.

Welcome to friendly Spain

San Sebastián

This picturesque, sparkling, Spanish Basque town with its shimmering white two-mile long beachfront promenade was about as perfect as perfect could be.  We set up camp, and then rode our bikes the short 15 minutes to the expansive beach. We walked the length of the bay enjoying the views and ended up in the lively old town.

Beautiful San Sebastian beach.

Beautiful San Sebastian beach.

Bikes park much much easier than cars.

Bikes park much much easier than cars.

Old town with its many restaurants and shops.

Old town with its many restaurants and shops.

Christ statue keeping an eye on beach goers.

Mountaintop Christ statue keeping an eye on beach goers.

We decided to attempt to join the locals tapas-hopping.  It took us a few tries, but we finally figured out the system.  We’d enter a very crowded restaurant, and there would be many platters at the bar each filled with delicious-looking small snack-size creations, some fancy, others more like small sandwiches on crusty bread, topped with jamon, bacon, fresh anchovies (yuck) and/or cheese.  After watching for what the locals ordered, we would point to (sometimes we’d just grab) what looked good, and eat!  You were on the honor system and just paid for what you ate on the way out.  Most were delicious. We’d then head to the next place that looked good and repeat the process. We had so much fun, we repeated the process the next night as well! We both felt that we could have stayed longer than the three short days we did in this charming town that was both modern (great shopping), and traditional.

Tapas and beer

Tapas and beer go well together.

A nice evening topped off with a street performer and his cello at the base of the church.

A nice evening topped off with a street performer and his cello at the base of the church.

Lights along the beach in the evening.

Beach and town lit up at night..

Departing the next day, we happened upon the Camino de Santiago (Saint James’ Trail).  This is Europe’s most popular pilgrimage. People walk or bike 500 miles covering the same path that took Saint James to the northern corner of Spain (the edge of the known world at that time).  While we did not come prepared to walk the trail, we decided to drive it, visiting the small towns and villages along the way. Pilgrims on the walk start in the foothills of the Pyrenees mountains, then through Pamplona, through the vineyards and plains, and then end their journey 500 miles later in Santiago, Spain.

Pamplona

A favorite town of Ernest Hemingway; a Basque town with narrow lanes and beautiful churches, and of course, the town world-famous for its Running of the Bulls.

We camped nearby and rode our bikes for six miles along the Camino de Santiago (Saint James’ Trail) into the historic downtown Pamplona.   When we arrived, we walked the path the bulls take during their famous run, marveling at some of the narrow passageways and turns that both the bulls and the participants must maneuver. That evening we enjoyed tapas at various locations in town. and then made our way back to our bikes and the trail for the ride back to camp (getting more than a little lost, so that the return trip took about three hours).

Oh my!

Oh my!

Following the path of the bulls.

Following the path of the bulls.

Markers showing where the craziness takes place.  if you don't believe its crazy follow the below link to a video.  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qmp4DjtWcuw

Markers showing where the craziness takes place. If you don’t believe its crazy follow the below link to a video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=agDZMWH8oS8

 

Continuing the Camino de Santiago

We enjoyed several short stops in interesting small towns, their narrow cobblestone streets lined with tall old buildings. In some towns these two way streets were not wide enough for Dakota to maneuver through, so we would have to turn around (not easy) or back out.   We were glad there was not much traffic. Instead of the usual streams of cars, we would see many people walking to buy their morning bread, talking with neighbors, hanging out their wash to dry from upper story windows, or enjoying a cup of coffee with friends at an outdoor cafe.

Couldn't make the turn at the end so we ended up backing out.

Couldn’t make the turn at the end so we ended up backing out.

Old cemetery along the camino de santago,

Old cemetery along the Camino de Santiago, Next to the trash can near the center of the picture is a place where pilgrims get water along the trail.  Along the trail you are never more than 10 kilometers from water or a place to stay (hostel).

The country side looks much like California with its vineyards and dry hills.

The country side looks much like California with its vineyards and dry hills.

One of the interesting side trips was to the Irache Monastery. Here they offered free wine (and free water) to pilgrims and travelers alike. at their self-serve outdoor fountain.  We also ducked inside for a quick visit to a once abandoned church. It was almost empty, but the carvings and statues that were left were beautiful.

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Irache Monastery

Water on the right, wine on the left.

Water on the right, wine on the left.

I think the translation is "drink what you want but don't be a pig"

I think the translation is “drink what you want but don’t be a pig”

Briones – while driving  toward our next destination, we spotted a sign that said “Briones 30 km”. Steve agreed to a detour in honor of our friend Rosie Briones.  The quaint town is located in the Rioja wine region of Spain.  We drove up and up, and at one point had to pull over so a tractor could pass.  We parked and walked toward a rather humble looking church. We respectfully entered and were amazed at the ornate gilded interior. It contained several small chapels, a beautiful collection of art in its treasury, and an impressive pipe organ. Although difficult to describe, it was one of the most moving experiences of our trip.

Church of Santa Maria in Briones, Spain.

Church of Santa Maria in Briones, Spain.

Impressive interior hidden away in this small town church.

Impressive interior hidden away in this small town church.

O Cebreiro – we traveled up a mountain road to this remote, rustic village that had round stone igloos with thatched roofs as houses. We found out that the animals lived on the lower levels of these houses while people lived on the upper floor so that the body heat of the animals kept the families warm.

A whole new meaning to the question, "were you born in a barn".

A whole new meaning to the question, “were you born in a barn”.

View from the mountain village

View from the mountain village, O Cebreiro.

Sometimes we were required to share the road with local farmers.

We shared the road with sheep, headed for greener pastures…

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and cows headed home…

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or pilgrims headed to salvation.

Final stop – Santiago de Compostela – this is where the pilgrims celebrate their completion of their long journey.  We visited the cathedral along with the pilgrims who had truly made the journey.  We appreciated their dedication, and could see the evidence of their journey in their well-worn shoes, slight limps from blisters on their feet, sunburned calves, and their hunched shoulders from carrying their large hiking packs.
We toured the cathedral first. We could feel the energy from the pilgrims and other visitors as we entered this church that began in the year 1075 and contains the tomb of Saint James. We sat and admired the ornate golden altar before continuing our visit.  We marveled at the intricate carvings and statues of the prophets and angels. We learned that the carvings were done in 1180 by Maestro Mateo who has a self-portrait in the church.  It was funny to hear that it used to be a ritual for scholars from the nearby university to kneel and tap their heads three times against his to help increase their intelligence and therefore their grades!

Due to the inability of using the flash, interior pictures do not do the cathedral justice.  Search Google for pictures of what we feel is one of the most impressive (if not the most impressive) church interiors in Europe.

Cathedral of Saint James

Santiago de Compostela Cathedral

 

View from the church tower.

View from the church tower.

Angles of Saint James

The angels of Saint James

We also visited the museum where we saw more of Maestro Mateo’s carvings, the original church bells, beautiful tapestries, an incredible library of ancient scrolls and books.  We spent time enjoying the town, listening to street music including bagpipes and guitars, shopping, eating and just plain walking around enjoying the people and ambiance.

Final Days in France

Innov-Agri Equipment Show

Upon leaving Paris, we decided to travel just 60 miles south to the small town of Outarville, France in order to attend the Innov-Agri Equipment Show. This show is held in different countries throughout Europe and is only held once every two years. We were glad that we scheduled this show into our trip.

Areal view of the Innov-Agri show.  Notice the equipment lined up around large demonstration fields.

Areal view of the Innov-Agri show. Notice the equipment lined up around large demonstration fields.

Upon entry to the show grounds, it soon became obvious that there were differences, as well as similarities to American farm shows. Just as their American counterparts, the European show contained various manufactures from many different facets of the agriculture industry.  It soon became obvious that this show covered a much larger area and that  it required greater prior planing.  The larger area did not offer additional room for equipment displays, but rather provided areas for demonstration purposes. Crops had been strategically planted throughout the show grounds, and were at various growth stages.  This was done to provide equipment manufactures with an optimum way to showcase their latest models.  There is no better way to test a chopper’s performance than to run it through mature corn, side by side with the competition.  We enjoyed the day exploring the show, talking with fellow agriculturists, and looking at a great deal of equipment representing many areas of the agriculture industry.

 

This large hose reel with a water cannon attached to the end appears to be a European irrigation system of choice.  They are very common throughout the countryside and operate similar to the garden sprinkler that pulls its self across the yard.

This large hose reel with a water cannon attached to the end, appears to be a European irrigation system of choice. They are very common throughout the countryside and operate similar to the garden sprinkler that pulls its self across the yard.

Case IH Quadtrac demonstration pulling a 15 bottom plow

Case IH Quadtrac demonstration pulling a 15 bottom plow.

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A supplier of soil amendments put together this display showing the benefits of their product. It is apparent that prior planning goes into this show.

 

The Dordogne River Valley

We then lazily drove through the French countryside enjoying the sun shinning on the of fields full of droopy headed sunflowers, drying corn, dry- farmed walnut orchards, and the occasional fortress rising above them all.

We chose the feudal village of Sarlat to use as our home-base while exploring this rich valley.  Arriving  early on market day we discovered a rich array of strawberries, fresh vegetables, walnuts, cheeses, and a selection of the regions specialty, “foie gras” (enlarged livers from force fed geese and ducks costing about $50.00 per pound).  We shopped for fresh ingredients for dinner, but  both decided against the foie gras.

Bustling Sarlat street market.

Bustling Sarlat street market.

Men's room?

Men’s room?

Wanted to add this to my red meat project but for the life of me could not figure out what it was.

Wanted to add this to my red meat project, but for the life of me could not figure out what it was (after careful examination it appears to be large rabbit).

The beautiful scenery and the warm weather enticed us to rent a canoe. We lazily drifted down the Dordogne River through several small hillside towns, each with their own fortress on the highest mountain top. We just docked our canoe when we wanted to look around these sleepy, relaxed towns.

Great day for a canoe trip

Great day for a canoe trip.

The river views were amazing.

The river views were amazing.

Even the sights between towns is awe inspiring.

Even the sights between towns is awe inspiring.

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One of several river side villages.

Chateau above our campground.  Still a private residence.

Chateau above our campground. Still a private residence.

We found out that this area is world-famous for their limestone caves decorated with prehistoric art.  We toured the Font de Gaume cave, and were surprised by the sense of movement, and sophistication we saw in these mysterious Cro-Magnon drawings and etchings.  Photographs are strictly forbidden so we have added several Google images in order to share our experience.

Google image of cave interior.  Sientests claim that the drawings are from between 15,000 and 10,000 BC

Google image of cave interior. Scientists claim that the drawings are from between 15,000 and 10,000 BC.

Image of cave interior, thanks again to Google images.

Image of cave interior, thanks again to Google images.

Paris – The city of lights

Paris 

Day 1 – Arriving in the late afternoon, setting up camp, and then taking the metro into the city at dusk was perfect. We arrived at at Eiffel Tower as the sun started to set and began our climb.  We ascended the first 400 feet using the winding metal stairway, and then crammed into the crowed elevator for the next 900 feet to the summit for great panoramic views of the city. We celebrated with a glass of champagne, enjoying the incredible night views of the city before riding back down to the second story and descending the rest of the way downm by again using the deserted stairway, while others continued on the elevator (our legs still feel every step).

The Eiffel Tower contains over 7000 tons of metal and 60 tons of paint.

The Eiffel Tower contains over 7000 tons of metal and 60 tons of paint.

The beginning of our climb, notice still smiling.

The beginning of our climb, notice still smiling.

The view is worth the hard work getting to the top.

The view is worth the hard work getting to the top.

View from the ground is not bad either.

View from the ground is not bad either.

Day 2 – Who, but us, spend their second day in the world capital of art, fashion and fine food doing laundry, grocery shopping and cleaning?

Home Sweet Home

Home Sweet Home

Day 3 and 4 – We left Paris for a tractor pull?  Not just any tractor though, the European Championships!  While in Verdun, we saw the advertisements for the event, and knew we could not pass up the opportunity to return on the weekend.  Driving 120 miles turned out to be well worth the time.  Having always heard that the Europeans are serious about this sport, we had to find out for ourselves; we were not disappointed.  in our opinion, the competition and overall quality of tractors was the best we have seen. We enjoyed the two day event. We camped with hundreds of other spectators, taking in the complete experience.

They take their tractor pulling seriously and even have official signs pointing the way..

They take their tractor pulling seriously, even have official signs pointing the way..

The event started with the Mini Modified.  It is amazing the different engine configurations and the use of old military aircraft engines.

The event started with the Mini Modified. It is amazing the different engine configurations and the use of old military aircraft engines. Here is a Rolls Royce V12 in the light weight class.

Even trucks got into the action.

Even trucks got into the action.

The awards ceremony is a big deal, with the national anthem and all.

The awards ceremony is a big deal, with the national anthem and all.

Here are a couple of my favorites.

Day 5 – Back to Paris, the incredible, vibrant city that is home to some of the world’s best art including the Mona Lisa at the famous, but somewhat overwhelming Louvre, Monet’s Water Lilies at L’Orangerie, and my favorite, the Thinker at the Rodin Museum.

The Thinker at the RodinMuesuem

“The Thinker” at the Rodin Museum.

My favorite "The Sweater"

Steve’s  favorite “The Sweater”

I can relate

I can relate

Day 6 – Impressionist art has always been one of our favorites, so we decided to take a drive to Giverny, to the home and gardens of Claude Monet. I was afraid I would be disappointed, but instead I was quite charmed by the gardens, the house, and the surrounding areas.  Getting to see the water lilies that were inspiration for Monet’s most famous paintings was amazing!

Famous Monet Giverny bridge

Famous Monet Japanese bridge.

Water lilies and beautiful gardens.

Water Lilies

Day 7- A beautiful day walking and walking through this beautiful city. We window shopped in the trendy Montmartre district, toured the 700 year old Cathedral of Notre Dame, and finally walked under the street to the the magnificent Arc de Triomphe that Napoleon had commissioned to commemorate his victory in the 100 year war.

The always impressive Notre Dame Cathedral.

The always impressive Notre Dame Cathedral.

 

Arc de Triomphe, i qm unsure which is more entertaining to observe, the Arc or the traffic in the roundabout.  Watch this youtube video to get an Idea of what the trafic is like  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TTtsmBYIShA

Arc de Triomphe, I am unsure which is more entertaining to observe, the Arc or the traffic in the roundabout. Watch this youtube video below to get an idea of the traffic conditions.  I hope the scooter drivers have good life insurance!

 

Day 8 – Time to continue our journey onward. We decided to first take a quick side-trip to the Palace of Versailles.  This gilded palace of all palaces, is where the Treaty of Versailles was signed (one of the peace treaties signed at the end of World War I), where the the the opulence and extravagance of the French monarchy began with King Louis XIV and ended with  King Louis XI and Marie Antoinette.

Back of the palace taken from gardens.

Back of the palace taken from gardens.

Impressive gardens to say the least, covering 2000 acres.

Impressive gardens to say the least, covering about 2000 acres.

Across the Rhine

When we crossed the Rhine River, we began our journey into France.  We apologize for the delay in posts, it was surprising to find internet in France difficult to obtain or very expensive.  Other than that, we hope you find France as interesting and full of history as we did.

Verdun

With World War I having been fought over 100 years ago, there are no remaining veterans living to tell the story of the Battle of Verdun.  If they were alive today, they would want the world to remember that in just 300 days, 230,000 men lost their lives in an area covering only 8 square miles.  Evidence of what took place during those 300 days are still seen to this day,  As we traveled over the cratered landscape where 60 million artillery shells were fired, and where complete towns were destroyed, we reflected on the horrific battles of this “senseless” war.  There are still many signs that this area was completely devastated.  Partial trenches, old barbed wire, old hidden military forts, gun batteries and signs posted to warn visitors that some areas are still unsafe to enter due to unexploded shells that remain, even 100 years later.  It was eerie to visit towns that were completely destroyed, with only plaques telling us where the baker once had his shop, where the church once stood….

Old World War I fort built into the side of a hill, now over grown and empty,

Old World War I fort built into the side of a hill, now over grown and empty,

Sign warning people of the dangers of unexploded shells that still remain, 100 years after the war.  The French government estimates there are still millions of unexploded shells remaining,

Sign warning people of the dangers of unexploded shells that still remain, 100 years after the war. The French government estimates there are still millions of unexploded shells remaining,

We visited many somber and thought provoking memorials along the way, but none more humbling than the Douaumont Ossuary. It is more than a memorial; it holds the bones of over 200,000 French and German soldiers who were killed on the muddy fields of Verdun. After the war, the Bishop of Verdun, Monseigneur Ginsty, felt solders deserved a proper burial and began collecting their remains and commissioned the building of this memorial. Solders’bones were officially collected from 1920 to 1932 and placed in the memorial.  Even today, 100 years later, remains are unearthed by local farmers,  We were deeply moved and would forever remember our visit.

 

Douaumont ossuary near Verdon, France is a memorial to the soldiers who gave their lives in the Great War.

Douaumont Ossuary near Verdun, France is a memorial to the soldiers who gave their lives in the Great War.

Battle memorial in french countryside.

Battle memorial in french countryside.

Oise Aisne France American Cemetery

American Cemetery, Oise Aisne, France

 

Alsace

The province of Alsace in France is near the German border which is evident in the style of architecture.  In fact, Alsace has changed flags several times over its history.  We heard both German and French spoken interchangeably as we strolled through the various towns in this region.

We camped in Colmar and biked into town our first night.  The town was enchanting.  We enjoyed wine tasting, then ate a late dinner of crepes and baeckeoffe at the cozy Crep’Stub Creperie.

Alsace architecture, when the house were built the owners paid tax based on the square footage of the bottom floor.  Is it coincidence that the upper floors were larger?

Alsace architecture, when the house were built, owners paid tax based on the square footage of the bottom floor. Is it coincidence that the upper floors were larger?

Typical home

Typical Alsace building

Early the next morning, we biked to the nearby town of Eguisheim where we hiked for twenty minutes up a steep hill . We were rewarded with more climbing!  As we arrived at the castle ruins, we noticed a tower and ascended the narrow winding steps to the top. The views of the vineyards, towns, and valleys below were our true reward.

Alsace countryside known for Chardonnay, Riesling and Gewurztraminer.

Alsace countryside known for Chardonnay, Riesling and Gewurztraminer wines.

Castle above

Castle above Eguisheim

Reims

Although only an hour from Verdun, the mood was very different from its somber neighbor of Verdun.   It is here that Champgne was first invented, twenty-six kings were crowned, and where the Germany officially surrendered in 1945, ending World War II.

Reims has a lively old town, with many shops, cafés, a beautiful cathedral with an enchanting statue of a mischievously smiling angel.  Reims is also home to a Carnegie Library. It was funded by an American who believed that knowledge could put an end to all wars.

Reims town square.  Statue is a reproduction, the original was melted down by during the Nazi occupation.

Reims town square. Statue is a reproduction, the original was melted down by during the Nazi occupation.

The Reims Cathedral of Notre Dame – our visit to this beautiful cathedral was enlightening and educational.  Inside this Gothic masterpiece, we took in the incredible stained glass, the stunning art work and life-like statues,  Unlike other churches we had visited, this one also had place cards with the history of the region. They included pictures of the community rebuilding the cathedral after World War I as it had been targeted and hit with over 300 German shells. One picture really stood out. It was of a group of people attempting to put back together the shattered stained glass windows

 

Reims Catheridal

Reims Cathedral

The Smiling Angle is now a symbol of Reims resilience

The Smiling Angel is now a symbol of Reims resilience.

Photo of workers reassembling stained glass windows after WWI

Photo of workers reassembling stained glass windows after WWI

Photo taken after WWI shelling.

Photo taken after WWI shelling.

Reims Cathedral during the evening light show.

We returned at 10 pm to watch a 25 minute light and sound show with the cathedral itself as a backdrop. Using colorful lights and booming sound, it took us through the history of, and building of the cathedral..

What the? Auguste Batholdi, designer of Statue of Liberty was born in the town of Colmar, this replica is in his honor.

Auguste Batholdi, designer of Statue of Liberty was born in the town of Colmar,  this replica is in his honor.

 

 

 

Padua, Verona and the Italian Alps

Padua
The Italian province of Padua is a treasure chest of extraordinary richness with its walled medieval cities, art, hills, lakes, and castles. These are all linked by waterways with beautiful bicycle trails that we were quick to take advantage of. All three of us us biked to the neighboring walled cities of Monselice, Este, and then Montagnana,  following the canals and waterways that flow through the province.

Enjoying on of Padua's many bicycle trails

Enjoying one of Padua’s many bicycle trails

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Each of these beautiful medieval cities contained one or more traffic-free squares. Town squares are an ancient concept that continues their usefulness today. These squares are often about the size of two football fields, and are lined with cafes, restaurants with outdoor seating, and shops.  They are great places for meeting people, lingering over a cup of coffee (or for Giana, lingering over a Spritz), or for watching people out for their evening stroll.

Padua town square.

One of Padua’s  town-squares.

Basilica of Saint Anthony, Padua – the relatively plain red brick exterior, guarded by Donatello’s life-size equestrian statue, did nothing to prepare us for the incredible beauty inside of the Basilica of Saint Anthony. Each of us agreed that it was the most beautiful, and spiritually moving church we had visited on our trip.  Pictures were not allowed inside the basilica at all, and I am unsure if they could do it justice anyway, but no words could describe the vibrant colors, the intricate stained glass or the gleaming white marble tomb of Saint Anthony himself.

Saint Anthony's Basilica.

Saint Anthony’s Basilica.

As we entered, we saw Donatello’s crucifix, as well as seven other statues by the great Florentine sculptor who spent more than ten years of his life creating the altar.  After reflecting on, and appreciating the use of space, light and color, we made our way to St. Anthony’s tomb.  This entire area was carved in gleaming white marble, and included nine reliefs showing times in the life of the saint. These clearly demonstrated  the Renaissance mastery of realism  as each of the 3-D faces showed vivid emotion, and each frame was intricately carved. The saint’s remains have been contained in this tomb for over seven centuries.

There were three other chapels inside the basilica that were each impressively painted from the year 1500 to the year 1700.  Stained glass windows added to the majesty of each chapel.  Each of us felt blessed to have been able to visit this impressive medieval church.

Interior view of Donatello's crucifix.

Google image of the interior view of Donatello’s crucifix.

Tomb of Saint Anthony

Google image of the tomb of Saint Anthony

Basilica interior

Google image of the Basilica of St. Anthony’s  interior.  The picture does not show the vivid colors well.

We were sad to leave this beautiful and  friendly area for several reasons. We enjoyed our time here, but sadly it was time to return to Venice to take Giana to the airport so she could return to Berkeley for classes.  Our next stops (sans Giana) would be the Verona, the real-life setting for the fictional story of Romeo and Juliet, and then off to the Dolomites in Northern Italy.

Verona

This town boasts about being the real life setting for the story of Romeo and Juliet with its feuding families, the Montecchi and the Capellos as models for Shakespeare’s Montagues and Capulets.  We spent time visiting its Roman ruins including an arena built in the same fashion as the more famous Colosseum in Rome.

Verona Arena

Verona Arena

One of Verona's many squares and outdoor markets.

One of Verona’s many squares and outdoor markets.

 

The Dolomites and the Italian Alpes
The Perfect Day – We arrived at a campground that had unbelievable views of the mountains and the valleys below. The camper sites were full, but they made room for us in a spacious tent site with views of  the Dolomites looming in the background.  After settling in, we walked to the next town on a dirt trail that cut through the forest and afforded us beautiful views of the valley below. When finally we arrived, we  rode on an Areial  Cableway (an enclosed ski lift ) to the Alpe di Siusi.  It  lifted us 1000 feet to Europe’s largest alpine meadow.

View from

View from the Areial Cableway on our ride to  Alpe di Siusi .  See  photo gallery for more pictures..

View of the alpine meadow, Alpe di Siusi.  If you listen closely you can almost hear Julie Andrews singing the Sound of Music.

View of the alpine meadow, Alpe di Siusi. If you listen closely you can almost hear Julie Andrews singing the Sound of Music.

Road up to the Dolomites, Dakota did well as long as she was in first or second gear (other tourists didn't seem to like the pace).

Road up to the Dolomites,  Dakota did well as long as she was in first or second gear (other tourists didn’t seem to like the pace though). Many apple orchards below,

We made it!

We made it!

Farming the Alps

To our pleasant surprise, the Italian alps are home to a great deal of agriculture. Small dairies, grape vineyards and most of all apples cover much of the arable land within this beautiful area.  In fact, the Alps are believed to have more than 20,000 family growers growing 28,000 hectares of apples (nearly 70,000 acres).  It’s hard to image until you see it, apples are everywhere you look.  We were lucky enough to be traveling during harvest  and were able to observe the operation first hand.

In addition to apples, we found it fascinating to see small dairies scattered throughout the area.  Cows graze in pastures as high as 6700 feet in elevation during the summer, and are then moved lower during the winter (unsure if it’s for the cows sake or to make room for the skiers).  We watched as a local farmer bailed grass hay and two workers followed behind with hand rakes making sure not a blade was missed.  It is a different type of agriculture than we are used to, but meets the needs of the family farmer.

Hedge row apples with shade covering.  Most of the newer orchards were of this type of planting.

Hedge row apples with shade covering. Most of the newer orchards were this type of planting.

Mature planting utilizing both inline drip irrigation as well as overhead sprinklers.

Mature planting utilizing both inline drip irrigation as well as overhead sprinklers.

Small vehicle with hay rake

Small vehicle with hay rake

The most scenic pasture I have ever seen.

The most scenic pasture I have ever seen.

 

 

Venice

Venice – a city with no cars, boats for taxis and arguably the world’s best gelato, is comprised of 100 islands connected by 400 bridges and 2000 narrow alleys that allow you to escape the crowds and retreat into a world of idyllic charm.

We visited Venice for five days and I could have stayed longer.  The city charmed me with its ancient washed-out colors, iron window screens, flowering window boxes, plethora of specialty shops, charming squares with outdoor cafes, and beautiful churches.

Small bridge in a back alley of Venice.  Charming and away from crowds.

Small bridge in a back alley of Venice. Charming and away from crowds.

The Grand Canal

The Grand Canal

Gelato!

Gelato!

Beautiful city.

Beautiful city

Our first impression of Venice was one of intense crowds (we don’t do crowds well).  We arrived on the island at noon, and were overwhelmed by the crowds.  We attempted to view a few sights, but soon decided to get off the beaten track and explore aimlessly.  Our explorations were rewarded with incredible views of the city, its small alleyways and small cafés where we enjoyed lunch as the locals did and homemade gelato that could be described as art.   We decided that escaping the crowd had been the right choice and would continue to visit this historic city, but only in the early mornings before the cruise ships dropped off tourists by the hundreds, and in the evening when most tourists had returned home.

Piazza San Marco in the middle of the day.  Have to be tough in order to get through the crowds.

Piazza San Marco in the middle of the day. Have to be tough in order to get through the crowds.

Crossing the Ritalo Bridge at 7:00 am.  Well worth getting up early.

Steve and Giana crossing the Ritalo Bridge at 7:00 am. Well worth getting up early.

One of the many churches in Venice, each with there own square

One of the many churches in Venice, each with its own square

We toured the next two days on the Vaporetto, the city’s water bus, getting on and off at different stops. We enjoyed the incredible views cruising the Grand Canal (the city’s “main street”), as well as the waterways between the larger islands.  The experience was entirely different in the evening after the tourists left and left us with the usually crowded boat, all to ourselves.

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Just as a good city bus system, the boat system of Venice can get you most anywhere. The views are quite good as well, especially if you can get one of the few seats in the back.

Boat is by far the best way to see the city and Grand Canal.

Boat is by far the best way to see the city and Grand Canal.

We took a day trip to Murano, an island known for its  decorative and artistic glass.

We took a day trip to Murano, an island known for its decorative and artistic glass.

Venice at night was magical!  There were few people out walking, and the larger squares with outdoor cafés had live classical music for our enjoyment.  In San Marco’s square, the largest of the squares, there were three “dueling orchestras”.  These three to five piece orchestras situated around the square would take turns playing booth classical and modern music to see who could engage the crowd the most. It was quite fun. We clapped, danced, and truly enjoyed the ambiance of fun and romance.

Piazza San Marco in the evening while orchestras play.

Piazza San Marco in the evening while orchestras play.

The crowds seem to have missed the best part of the day.

The crowds seem to have missed the best part of the day.